Hello again :)
I have done an absolutely horrible job of updating this blog lately...my apologies once again. I spent the weekend after Istanbul and this past weekend in Athens. Last week we had midterms...so I spend most of my time cramming for exams and writing papers; this past weekend I just took it easy...wandered around Pangrati and Monastiraki and did a little shopping on Ermou Street.
To recap: Istanbul
Istanbul was absolutely amazing. I honestly cannot say enough good things about the city.
After catching the 5 am bus from Syntagma to the Venizelos Airport, we (I went with a group of 13 people) boarded our plane for a short 1 hour 15 minute flight to Istanbul. We arrived in the city around 10:30 am and took a cab to what was supposed to be the Orient Express Hotel. So, when our taxi driver dropped us off in front of the Assos Hotel, everyone was a little bit confused. As it turns out, our Greek travel agent had booked us for the wrong hotel and the wrong set of nights. Let's just say...I will no longer be relying on travel agents while I am in Greece. Based on my experience and the experiences of my friends, I have come to the conclusion that Greek travel agents are completely and utterly incompetent. Luckily, despite the reservation error, the hotel managed to get us all rooms for our 4-day, 3-night stay.
After taking a short nap and grabbing some lunch (Turkish pizza), we spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the Grand Bazaar. I ended up buying way too many pashminas and useless trinkets, but on the upside...I did get to practice my haggling skills. Side-note: the shopkeepers in the bazaar were absolutely outrageous. The lines they threw out at us to try to get us to buy from them were some of the most ridiculous things I have ever heard. I'll leave it at that haha.
Later on that night, after buying a 40-cent grilled cheese from a street vendor, I took the metro down to the main train station with some friends to see a group of whirling dervishes perform. Whirling dervishes belong to a mystic sect of Islam known as Sufism. After praying and meditating in silence they enter into a spinning-trace. This spinning motion is symbolic in a number of ways. While spinning...they become one with God...the ego is dissolved and a connection with the infinite is established. While spinning, both hands are outstretched slightly above the head...one palm turned upwards to the heavens, the other turned down towards the ground. The upwards-facing palm takes God's blessing from the heavens while the downwards-facing hand distributes these blessings to the people on Earth. The performance - despite making me slightly dizzy - was mesmerizing. The spinning took place to a background of traditional mystic Islamic music and period chants from passages of the Qu'ran. Overall, really cool cultural experience.
The next day we woke up early and took a half-day tour to some of the main sites in Istanbul, including: the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Hippodrome. The Hagia Sophia was awesome. Originally built as an Orthodox church, after Byzantium fell to the Ottoman Empire, the church was converted into a mosque. All mosaics and paintings that depicted human figures were plastered over or destroyed and the pulpit was shifted 10 degrees so that it faced Mecca. After the Ottoman Empire fell, the Hagia Sophia was used for a number of religious services and was eventually turned into a museum. Since then, a number of the mosaics have been uncovered from beneath thick layers of plaster. After visiting the Hagia Sophia, we crossed the street and headed over to the beautiful Blue Mosque. This mosque was breathtaking - I could have spent much more time there than the tour allowed. After the Blue Mosque we walked over to see the hippodrome - the site of ancient Roman chariot races. The last part of our tour took us to a textile manufacturer/department store. The rugs we saw were beautiful - each was handmade and unique in design and color.
After the tour, we headed down to the basilica cistern...an awesome, spacious underground water cistern in the heart of Istanbul. We wandered around, saw some statues of medusa, and bought some apple tea from the cistern cafe. Apple tea is the tea of choice in Istanbul...and there is good reason for this...it is delicious! I think I must have ordered a cup at every meal haha. After exploring the cistern, we wandered down to the famous spice bazaar. The streets were incredibly crowded, but the bazaar was great. Vendors sold tons of dried fruit, spices, and Turkish Delight.
That night we ate dinner at a pretty nice restaurant about 15 minutes away from our hotel. Something to know about restaurants in Istanbul - bread does not come with your meal. The waiters kept bringing out baskets of hot bread and sitting them in from of us. We were not aware of the "you eat you pay" rule and so, with 13 of us eating bread, our bill ended up being a little higher than expected. After dinner, we went to a hookah bar. I'm not a big hookah person, but I will admit that the hookah bars in Istanbul are pretty awesome. Hookah for Turks is somewhat equivalent to "getting a coffee" with friends in the United States and other parts of Europe.
On Sunday - the third day we were there - a group of us got up early and headed down to Topkapi Palace. This palace served as one of the main administrative centers during the Ottoman Empire. It was absolutely beautiful...we spent the entire morning exploring the grounds. After walking for a few hours, we decided to grab lunch at a local Turkish restaurant called "Han." We sat on pillows on the ground and ate homemade crepe-like pancakes with feta. The food was amazing and our waiter seemed super friendly...that is until he tried to buy me as his wife for 35 chickens and 4 cows. Then it got a little awkward haha lol. Anyways, after eating, we wandered past Galata Bridge and headed towards the famous Suleimann Mosque. Most of the building was under construction but the grounds were beautiful. After seeing the mosque, a few of us went to the historical Cemberlitas Hamami Turkish bath. Let's see...what can I say about the Turkish bath? Definitely an experience. You basically lay on a big, hot, marble stone and get washed by rather large, hairy Turkish women. Sounds awkward right? Haha. It was actually really amazing and relaxing and I would recommend the experience to anyone who goes to Turkey in the future. Later that night, we went over to an area of Istanbul known as Taksim Square. This area has a pretty good nightlife scene and acts as a business center during the day. It reminded a few people of a mini Times Square.
On Monday - our last day - we took a ferry across the Bosphorus to visit the "Asian" side. There wasn't really anything to see there...most people just wanted to go so that they could say they had been to "Asia" haha. After grabbing a quick lunch, we took the ferry back to the old city center. At that point, I went with a few friends to try to visit the archaeological museum. Unfortunately, it happened to be closed that day...so kind of a bummer. For the rest of the morning/afternoon I wandered back over to the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque and then passed through the Grand Bazaar one last time. We left around 6 pm that night and flew back to Athens. Like I said before, Istanbul was awesome. I really loved the city and found the people incredibly welcoming and kind.
Looking ahead:
This week I only have two days of class (so today is my last day). I am leaving early tomorrow morning with my archaeology class to visit the famous sites of Olympia and Delphi. I won't be back until Sunday but when I do get back I'll give you a full update. Then, Thursday of next week, I leave with my Ancient Macedon class for a 4-day field trip to Northern Greece. It's gonna be an awesome two weeks!
Gotta head off to my next class - but have a great day!
Ya sas,
Jen